After successfully completing this course, the student is able to:
- Qualitatively understand the process of tide generation
- Derive, analyze and solve idealised hydrodynamic models of tidal dynamics in simple geometries (e.g., Kelvin wave, Taylor problem), tidal rivers
- Know the fundamentals of sediment transport and characteristics of marine bed forms (sandbanks, sandwaves) and understand the formation mechanisms of bedforms using stability analysis
- Understand the fundamentals of barrier coast dynamics and derive, analyse and solve simple models describing these dynamics (e.g., Escoffier)
- Qualitatively understand wind-driven flow processes (Ekman dynamics, storm surges); Ekman dynamics also quantitatively.
Assessing the impact of (economic) activities in the marine environment requires knowledge of the physical processes in these systems. The North Sea is a typical example of such a system, with many (often conflicting) functions and values.. This course deals with the qualitative and quantitative understanding of hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes associated with long waves and tides.|
We start from a qualitative approach, describing observations and dynamics of long waves and tides in the marine environment. We then proceed to a quantitative, process-based perspective, using (partial) differential equations to describe these dynamics. We pay attention to both deriving and solving these equations. The solution usually provides a description of the water motion (and in some cases the sediment transport and bed evolution) as a function of time and space. Finally, a sound interpretation of the model results against the context of observed dynamics is crucial.
This course is assessed by means of one group assignment (30%) and one written exam (70%)
- ..builds on the mathematical foundation created in “Mathematical Physics of Water Systems”
- ..is the larger-scale and more offshore-oriented counterpart of the fellow course “Short Waves and Coastal Dynamics”
- ..provides process knowledge required for more specific application in “Morphology”.